I Spent 48 Hours in Prague, Here’s What I Learned Written By Kathleen Donovan

Written by: Kathleen Donovan

On a sunny French day in May, I decided to go to Prague. The decision was made rashly and almost immediately. I was sitting in my apartment and planning out my last weeks in France before my close friend arrived and spent my last European month with me. The Czech Republic wasn’t on my list of countries I had planned to visit when I made the move to France, and I had absolutely no information about it when I booked my flight. Being completely honest, it was only chosen because it was the cheapest destination to fly to as a small reprieve before visiting a friend living in Vienna. I didn’t know at the time but Prague would change me and my view on myself in ways I’d never imagined. It would also lead me to two of the best sushi restaurants I’ve ever had in my entire life. Which as a sushi lover is not something I say lightly.  

My flight cost a grand total of 20 US dollars. While waiting in the airport I finally did some research on the city. As I found out, Prague is a smaller city both in reputation and size compared to the giants within Europe (Paris, London, Rome etc.). The city is the capital of the Czech Republic, formerly known as Czechia with a population of 1.4 million people and is located alongside the Vltava River. A river that I feel comfortable claiming I know relatively well because 12 of my 48 hours spent in the city were happily spent biking around the river. Lime bikes are available almost everywhere making it very easy as a tourist to spend about .50 cents an hour to get around. 

The first thing I did after landing was check into Sir Toby’s Hostel, located just outside of the city. One thing you should know if you’re planning on visiting the city is the public transportation available in the city is amazing. I don’t think I paid for an uber once during that trip and the public transportation was completely free. After jumping on the bus into the main city my first destination was a brunch spot very celebrated online in Prague 7, named Cafe Letka. 

I ordered what seemed to be the popular dish on the menu, a light omelet with toast and a side salad, and after asking the barista what drink she’d recommend I was given a passionfruit tonic with cold brew. Which sounds absolutely disgusting but was shockingly amazing. To this day, I am still searching for something similar here in Los Angeles. The cafe was mainly for its interesting seating arrangements. There were the typical chairs and tables but also grandiose open windows alongside all the walls that were open and had windowstills filled with pillows. I settled down in one and waited for my food while continuing my task of finishing Jacqueline Harpman’s, “I Who Have Never Known Men”. Once arrived the food itself was amazing but what really drew my attention was the environment and behavior of the others in the cafe. 

Everyone seemed to be well-dressed, healthy and extremely happy. There were tiny little dogs wandering around the cafe dipping between legs and weaving through tables to the seeming delight of everyone in the establishment. On one table you’d find a group of the 20 something girls laughing over coffees, the other a light business conversation shared over salads. It was weirdly calming to me and gave me my first inkling that something about the city was special. 

After this amazing breakfast and time spent observing the average Prague dweller my time actually started in the city. I biked to the river because it sounded like the kind of thing a girl should experience at least once in her life. The journey took me about a half an hour and it was spent drifting through the most beautiful city I’d ever seen, with incredible gothic architecture everywhere and a plethora of black trench coats and chunky loafers. 

And I was in love with all of it. 

Riding that bike through Prague, stopping when I saw an interesting looking building or a randomly placed patch of tulips I made the decision to turn my phone off. I didn’t look for directions to Prague Must See’s or take loads of photos for my Instagram. I didn’t even put on headphones and listen to cinematic music to make the moment more cinematic. 

Instead, I let the natural sounds of the city chatter be my music and followed others on bikes and eventually found the river completely maplessly. Afterwards I followed the river all the way down until it led me to a natural trail and gigantic park located near the university. It was so freeing in a way I don’t think I’ve ever experienced before but have been chasing ever since. In leaving behind modern convention and inventions I found a freedom and peace I’d never even looked for before that moment simply because I didn't know it existed. 

Now I will not sit here and blame the United States for my reliance on my phone but I will say that the lack of accessibility and open landscapes within most major cities in the US or more specifically the West Coast makes it very difficult to go without my phone. There’s also something to be said about the social welfare projects the Czech Republic employs and its clear success (at least within Prague). All of the streets were clean and full of local businesses. As a female solo tourist I felt very safe my entire trip and walked or biked by myself during both the day and nighttime to no fear. There has also been clear success within their Sjednocená Dávka (super-benefit) programs. Out of Prague’s 1.4 Million residents, statistics say only around 5,000 of those residents struggle with housing meaning at one time typically only 0.00357142857 percent of Prague’s population is facing homelessness. Which is a wonderfully low statistic on its own, not even comparing it to some cities with the same population size. 

All of this to say, Prague was magical and I found bits and pieces there of a life I never imagined having before. One full of peace, the soft sound of rain falling, gentle bike rides around a river and a laughter reminiscent of bells ringing through the streets. My 48 hours taught me insurmountable lessons in what my life could look like, if I just let it. Within everyone's lifetime, I hope they find their version of my Prague experience. 

If that happens to also be in Prague, you won't find me complaining.